Coimbra

There is a light mist in the hills and we are up early to walk to the station a couple of kms away to catch our bus to Coimbra.

A few last shots as we go:

It is a two and a half hour bus journey to Coimbra. I have to say the expressway infrastructure is very impressive.

We see lots of pilgrims walking as we approach Coimbra. By now it is raining so they are all in raincoats, poor sods.

Coimbra is a riverfront (the Mondego River) city in central Portugal and the country’s former capital and is home to a preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra, one of Europe’s oldest. Built on the grounds of a former medieval palace, the University is famed for its baroque library, the Biblioteca Joanina, and its 18th century bell tower. In the city’s old town lies the 12th century Romanesque cathedral Sé Velha.

At the bus station (now almost 10:30 am) we are armed with umbrellas, etc. but the sun comes out, followed by another brief shower as we walk to our accommodation.

We leave our bags and set off (up!!) for the Universidad (founded in 1290) and in particular the Joanina Library; our tickets are for midday so we have time to eat our pastries that we had we picked up enroute to the bus earlier this morning and have time to look around the huge square with the attractive buildings like the Palacial Real (Royal Palace) and the bell tower which is a distinctive city landmark.

After touring the Biblioteca (library) and the Royal Palace, we started walking down to find the Cathedral but happened upon a restaurant at the Machado de Castro National Museum: an all-you-could-eat buffet with glass of wine incl soup, bread, main course, dessert and coffee for 12.50€. And with the most wonderful views across the rooftops and the Sé Velha.

Well fortified, we returned to the University to visit the St Michael’s Chapel with its immense organ.

Then the Botanic Gardens which really were a bonus. Magnificent trees (including a huge Ficus macrophylla and Eucalyptus gomphocephela from Australia) and lovely formal gardens. The gardens also have extensive woods (mata) which would have been lovely to explore but we had to move on.

We passed beneath the nearby aqueduct (often called the arcos do jardim or ‘arches of the garden’) which dates from 1570.

And finally found the Chemistry Laboratory and the Cabinet of Curiosities back at the University. Fascinating.

So we have seen EVERYTHING at the University and it was time to head back to our accommodation . We popped into the Romanesque cathedral Sé Velha on the way back down but we were under the pressure of time and had seen so much, so we declined the 2.50€ to see another cathedral and kept going so we could have a shower before heading out again.

Our apartment is amazing - even if it is on the 3rd floor - no lift! Thank goodness our bags had been brought up for us (because the room had not been ready when we arrived) - bonus!

We had tickets to a Fado concert at the Fado Centre for 6 pm, so we were keen to get there early. It was sold-out - just 50 people or so. Oh how marvellous. The fado guitarist and his offsider, the classical guitarist, were superb as were the two male singers - beautiful voices. Afterwards port was offered on the terrace.

We went for a drink, then to the supermarket to buy some bits and pieces for dinner. There was a lovely impromptu bunch of young people singing outside the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha in the evening light. Bystanders were joining in - mainly students; there is a very strong tradition of the university students serenading fado-style.

Coimbra really IS something! Quite lovely: beautiful buildings, a maze of narrow cobblestoned alleys and an atmospheric historic centre that dates to Moorish times. It features typical white stone buildings with several excellent examples of colourful azulejos tiling.

We walked on towards our apartment - you could get ‘high’ here just breathing: the cannabis is everywhere. We cannot believe how many cannabis shops there are here!

We have walked our feet off - 12.8 kms.