Sunday, May 21, 2023

Heading south

Good road into Melides for a morning tea break. Quiet. A few other bike riders today, being Sunday. Pine trees.


Coffee and cake here at a covered market where farmers and fishermen sell fresh fish and fruit and vegetables from their farms. There were numerous people sitting and chatting and buying goods from the butcher, etc. Baker didn’t seem so friendly … but we found another around the corner!! Pretty village.

Detoured to Lagoa de Melides: Google maps again trying to detour us off onto sandy tracks - argh; we tried one of these and gave up then found a SEALED road all the way there. Go figure...

It was SO worth the visit! More rice paddies as we turn off:

This large lagoon cuts across the landscape and flows through the pine forest, rice paddies and meadows of Melides, down to the beach creating a rich natural area for the flora and fauna it shelters. Since 2010, it has been classified as a “protected area of national interest”.

The beach was lovely and went on forever in both directions; miles better than Comporta (which we visited yesterday) which is raved about as being Portugal’s best kept secret.



On the return to the main road, I stopped for a photo of the orange cactus flowers we see everywhere by the road - and was rewarded with a bunch of spines in the leg! Silly duffer.

With about 7 kms to go and it being just after midday, we thought we’d grind it in the last kms to our destination (UNLESS, I said ‘something spectacular turns up along the way …) - and then at the top of a particularly long climb, there was a sign (in English): ‘Black Pig’. Gin (!!) Say no more: a G&T in the shade of the outdoor terrace: a fresh limey one for me and a stronger (!) one served with cinnamon for MF.


Delish! Pulled out our fresh bread rolls bought at Melide this morning and the last of our salami and cheese - what a GREAT place for lunch.

But rain was predicted for the afternoon, so we didn’t hang about too long. We ‘made tracks’ for Santiago do Cacém (boy, that bottle of gin in my panier is going to weigh me down!). And it was a big grind all the way in; argh. Cycled 52 kms; climbed 490 m.

A few spots of rain just as we arrived. Room with a view (out to the 13th century Igreja Matriz de Santiago do Cacém which is part of the medieval castle built by the Moors) - don’t have to go anywhere! Ha!

In fact we DO go up to the castle - I should start counting how many we have done … (after doing a load of washing at the laundromat, again!). The walk up through the centro was picturesque through the tapered cobblestone streets with sharp gradients, all hemmed in by dignified old houses in elegant states of decay. Some had lemons hanging over the walls. It was dead quiet - where was everyone?







The sky was getting very dark - rain? In fact we avoided it - we had views from the castle over the city and surrounding countryside out to the Atlantic in the far-off distance.

Not much open for dinner (being a Sunday night?) but we found a spot and had the most delicious meal; MF had the best fish he’s ever had he said. My pork with fig sauce was great and I loved the rice (local of course) that came with it. 

The place became quite crowded - there was a huge TV screen: BIG soccer event on: Benfica vs Sporting CP in Lisbon tonight. Everyone was watching. It was a terrific game, still going as we walked back to our accommodation - every bar, even the petrol station: everyone (well, the blokes mainly) was watching the match, eyes glued to the TV set.

We are in a motel tonight; got lots of space.

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