Blogged and packed and breakfasted. Then we went for our last walk in Lisbon: up and down (what’s new?) narrow, cobbled lanes - becos.
We dragged our suitcases down the long (cobbled!) street to the Metro and trained it out to Lisbon Oriente station. There is a big bus station here. Enjoyed a coffee sitting out under an umbrella in a large plaza (as we are early - and just as well, because it’s like a ‘dog’s breakfast’ here there being lifts not working and no clear signage).
It is a public holiday today - May Day; in fact useful for us as it means there are no peak hour crowds on the trains or streets - a less stressful way to exit Lisboa; however, the bus station was somewhat chaotic with no indication of precisely which platform the bus would arrive into (amongst the 6 possibilities listed on the ticket …) making for some anxious minutes.
Finally the bus arrives; we are underway 10 minutes late and straightforward journey north with just one stop.
We arrived about 11:30 a.m. and MF found the way seamlessly - 2 sets of stairs unfortunately - but the apartment is gorgeous. Heaps of room.
Leiria is situated in the area known as Central Portugal and the Lis River runs through it. We are right in the historic centre just 5 mins from the bus station.
We wandered off, first to the Sé (Cathedral) located at the base of the hill leading up to the castle. It is a combination of Mannerist and Baroque styles, built in the 16th century but was damaged in the earthquake of 1755.
We then walked to nearby cafe (everything is only 1 or 2 minutes apart, this historic centre being very small) for a simple lunch - lots of places are closed today, it being May Day.
To reach the castelo at its cliff-top location, we had a big hike up - I am feeling somewhat ‘over’ hills. This is the site of the first castle - in the time of the Moors.
We had great fun here - no queues, relaxing in the peaceful gardens - and only 1.25€ entry for Seniors - can you believe it?
The interpretative material was excellent and we enjoyed pleasing ourselves as to what we wanted to look at.
There is a gallery with a fantastic vantage point over the town’s roofs - once this would have been rural but now is urban and is incongruous when you think we are looking out at it from a 15th century castle.
A highlight was the lovely Gothic Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Penha, originally built in the 12th century and rebuilt by João I in the early 15th century. It has been beautifully restored.
On the way back, we happened upon a Laundromat - open! In our street!
We dashed to our apartment (quick stop at the church right opposite our apartment) and 5€ later we had a bunch of fresh clothes washed and dried. Yay!
The 18th century Igreja da Misericórdia opposite our apartment was built in late-Mannerist style on the plot of land where Leiria's medieval synagogue stood and which catered to a thriving Jewish quarter here from the 13th to 15th centuries.
We took it in turns to go for a walk around whilst the other looked after the washing. I happened upon an art exposition which was interesting. MF happened upon the local May Day March and came back for me to go and see it too.
Currently enjoying the largest Aperol Spritz I’ve ever seen; we are in a bar in the park at Largo 5 October.
Dinner at Mata Bicho. We sent back the ‘cover’ foods they always put on the table - Alberto (our guide on day 2) had alerted us to this practice which adds to the cost of the meal and isn’t necessarily what you want - and we ordered the regional sausage (alheira) as an appetiser which was delicious. Just as well, as our dinner took a while to come: lovely grilled pork and roasted vegetables: a share plate; followed by a local delicacy - a tiny dessert called Brisa lis (after the river).
Whilst we ate, we could see the lights on the castelo gradually lighting it up and after dinner we walked to get a better vantage point.
Good to walk off dinner! (although we have done 13 kms today!).
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