Tuesday, May 16, 2023

To Monsaraz

Left a little later than we wanted but breakfast at our casa WAS lovely - including the tomato and pumpkin jams!!

Only a short time on the N4 thankfully, then onto quiet back roads through pretty towns like Igrejinha; there was a gin facility and big cork processing plant at Azaruja.

The wind has been most unkind and once we came off the back roads, it was ‘tough going’ along the N254 - fortunately a reasonable verge most of the way given the traffic rips past at up to 120 km/hr (and we are not even on a freeway!).

Pulled into Redondo about half-way for some very average food about midday (note to self: just go to the supermarket!).

The wind switched to a cross wind and we get a bit of assistance. The last 10 kms turned out to be 15 kms because Mr Google Map tried initially to take us at one point in a straight line along a dirt road …

Sister Su-Su’s black jelly beans came in handy and we swig down water whenever we see some shade (which is not often). Some pretty landscape and villages enroute to our final destination: Monsaraz.

Sadly we are met with a 750 m length climb (115 m height) having to walk and push the bikes up a cobblestoned path (the Ladeiras Históricas apparently). I was ‘over’ it by the time we reached the top.

Climbed 647 m the entire day; distance: 80 kms. It was a very lumpy ride!

Exquisite room overlooking the surrounding countryside but I barely looked at it as I made a bee-line for the shower.

Perched high over the surrounding countryside, the tiny village of Monsaraz has: ABC - with great views over the Alqueva Dam (the Guadiana was controversially dammed in 2002 – now Europe’s largest artificial lake 83 kms long) and olive groves sprinkling the landscape.

We walked to the castle: not that difficult as we are at castle height already! Settled long before the Moors arrived in the 8th century, Monsaraz was recaptured by the Christians in 1167, and then given to the Knights Templar as thanks for their help. The Castelo de Monsaraz was added in 1310 by King Dinis; its military use stopped around 1830 - it was then used as a bullfighting ring.


We ambled along the narrow streets, lined with uneven-walled, whitewashed, red-roofed cottages, decorated with wrought iron balconies and hanging baskets of flowers and with distinctive, elongated chimney pots.

Had an early dinner at a restaurant I’d read about: there were just a few tables inside but we opted for being out in the street - one tiny table and 2 stools: the most delicious food - very simple but yummy especially the sericaia for dessert (miles nicer than the one last night). ‘Mine host’ introduced himself as Brad … Pitt (joke! he was a real ‘card’).

Walked back to our estalgem (‘inn’) and watched the sun set as we lay on deck chairs by the pool looking out over the countryside. 


The castle also lit up and I enjoyed the sight as I did my stretches by the pool.



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